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By Jamie Oliver

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1762-1796 Reign of Catherine the Great, who expands Russia south to the Black Sea, bringing slavs into permanent cultural contact with numerous ethnic groups. 18th century Imperial Russia gains control of northern parts of Central Asia. Russian nobility intermarry with the royal houses of the European continent and adopt fashions from Germany and France. New World foods—potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and chocolate—slowly begin to spread throughout Russia and Central Asia. mid-18th century French culture and language dominate in Russian aristocratic circles, including French adjustments to Russian cuisine, giving it world renown and many of its present characteristics.

For restaurants, it means quick service, a family-friendly atmosphere, or new locations in the suburbs. Food stores fill the gap by providing low-cost quality Russian products or imports from the near abroad. Although more foodstuffs and eating-out options are available, they are still beyond the means of the typical worker. Russians, on average, spend more than one-third of their budget on food, much higher than in Britain or the United States. 30 Seventy percent of citizens in Russia live near or below the poverty line.

17 Georgian restaurants were prevalent in Russia throughout the twentieth century, no doubt assisted by the fact that Stalin (birth name of Iosif Vissarionovich Dzhugashvili) was a Georgian and particularly fond of his native food and drink. Certainly many of Stalin's minions necessarily emulated his taste in red wine—the semisweet Khvanchkara and the fruity Kindzmarauli have both been attributed as his preferred drink. The famous Georgian restaurant Aragvi on Tverskaya Street—Moscow's ritziest thoroughfare leading to the Kremlin—not surprisingly opened its doors in the 1930s during Stalin's reign.

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